Favelas de Plaza de Mulas

Favelas de Plaza de Mulas

It was a long and challenging day, we left the Plaza Confluencia at 7.15 am and we got to Plaza de Mulas’ check in point exactly at 14.15 pm. I slowed down on the steep wall leading to the camp, my stomach and my back were hurting. My sore throat was annoying me and I was losing my voice. The steep slope felt like it was never ending, but with each step I was closer to my destination. Eventually, I had a first glimpse of the base camp. Suddenly, I received an extra shot of energy, a few more minutes and we will be there. Yes!

Firstly, we had to stop and register at the check in point and book our medical check. We will need to schedule two appointments during our time here: first day after our arrival and after our acclimatisation trek to Plaza Canada Camp, and before leaving for higher camps and the summit.

Even though I felt I was in good shape and I trained hard enough before my trip, nothing will ever completely prepare you for what you come across while climbing and the added effects of altitude. It’s not easy.

Mountain Tourism

Today definitely played with our minds’. We left the Confluencia Camp without breakfast and without a hot drink. The Lanko camp was hectic, they weren’t able to supply us with any hot water. And Raul packed all our equipment last night, when they asked us to remove our items from the communal tent. Richi went to the kitchen tent and asked for a bit of hot water and he just heard ‘it’s impossible’. I went with my bowl of porridge and empty bottle, and heard the same ‘it is impossible now’. There was a group of rich customers, there was no place for us in the communal tent – for people who didn’t purchase the whole package, as we only paid for the cargo transportation from Penitentes – Plaza de Mulas – Penitentes.

Their services are oriented for all types of expeditions, individual mountaineers or expedition teams, however remember that they will always prioritise ‘all inclusive’ clients.

Time was ticking, running out relentlessly … we had to pack up our camp, and prepare the equipment that mules will carry for us to Plaza de Mulas. As the weight wasn’t distributed evenly across the bags we had to repack .. ‘ now where to squeeze the salami? cheese? or my crampons? Any stuff that wasn’t fitting in the duffel bags we had to put in our day backpacks. There was just no time for anything, I just wanted to leave. Keep walking, to find myself in the middle of nowhere. So, I put my porridge in the bag and thought fuck this, let’s go.

I walked alone, at times I felt like the only human left on the planet, which was refreshing after experiencing social fatigue back in London.

Burnout

I was deeply engrossed in my thoughts, I didn’t have to be concerned about what to say, what to do or what others were thinking, my only responsibility today was to walk myself from Point A to Point B.

I think this is one of the reasons why I like my mountain escapes so much, as it is one of those moments, when I can disconnect from all the worries, where I can just take care of my basics, and very raw needs and be at present moment. However, recently even this become a difficult task for me, and I understood why only after I returned home from South America …

Rocky Desert – a great flat.

I walked, buried deep inside of my thoughts, I was trying to listen to the nature but today it was just impossible, such a bare surroundings, and I think I was just anxious. The trek follows the Horcones Superior River and then rises up a moraine next to the Horcones Glacier.

I called this area the Desert of Rocks, for over three hours we walked on a flat, rocky ground with the same landscapes. Not much was changing, mentally it was a killer. Nothing around, nothing to keep an eye on, from time to time I came across a few enormous rocks , and several strings to cross, shaking me up from the auto mode. I just walked with my head down to make sure that I don’t trip over. Sometimes I put my head up to check what has changed, do not get me wrong the valley is bordered by the beautiful peaks, but there is little vegetation and the land is dry and this part felt like an infinite walk.

Again those thoughts showed up in my head, thoughts that I don’t like, what am I doing here? Why am I doing it? If it is so difficult now how am I gonna make it to the top?

I was trying to send a telepathic message to my girlfriend, at this stage we haven’t been in contact for three days, and I missed her. Is telepathy real? Hmm, after what I’ve experienced on a few occasions – I would say yes!

After a lunch break (actually it was our breakfast), we started going up the hill, which felt physically more challenging than walk over the rocky dessert, now up and down, up and down, little strim to cross over. It got steep, for a moment I could see the camp, high up, far far away. I was thinking, fuck still so many steps to make. Without a hot drink today, my throat started playing up and when I got to the camp I was barely talking.

Arrival

Firstly, we had to check in with the park rangers. The next step was to locate our belongings brought by the mules from the Confluencia Camp. We were using the Lanko company for transportation of our expedition gear, so we had to find their camp. While walking through the camp I could see many different expedition  campsites, some of them were really posh, with artificial grass and plants, sun loungers, bed banks, mattraces, and nice catering tents with flooring, heating and dining tables covered with tablecloth, dining sets and cutlery. There was even a bar and a coffee shop provided by one of the expedition companies, I believe it was one of the better established and long operating INKA Expediciones. Mind blowing! My head was spinning. This is how mountaineering looks like nowadays? Transfer of our everyday’s life luxuries and comforts into the wilderness? Commercial expeditions are killing it.

Our Camp

Eventually we reached the Lanko campsite. It really felt like we were in Favelas. Outsiders, the place where we could set up our tents was located right on the edge of the Plaza de Mulas base camp. For people who didn’t buy a full service option but only portage, we had access to one high- altitude utility base camp tent, with two plastic tables, 4 benches and a few chairs. We also had access to one toilet which was made out of the sheet metal walls with a hole in the floor, under which a big barrel was collecting all human waste. 

I had my small tent just for myself, Raul and Richi were sharing another one pitched just behind mine. I arranged my belongings and made my way to the communal tent, shared between many other people. Soon I’ve learned that majority of them are from South and North America, and I was the only person there from Europe. We cooked our meal, and soon after we made our way back to our tents. After this long day we really deserved a rest, and it was really cold and cloudy outside, so my warm sleeping back was inviting me.

9 days without summit

Climbers usually spend between 3 to 5 nights here to acclimatise, and one night after they return from higher camps after the summit attack. But due to the recent conditions many people spent many days here and had to walk down without even being able to try to summit Aconcagua. Why? 

In the camp I’ve learned that it’s been 9 days without a summit.

Nims himself with two Sherpas, two top Argentinian mountaineers, and two other people are trying to clear the road to the summit. Until today there were 9 days without summit, and they predicting 3 more. People say that these conditions are winter conditions, not summer. They haven’t seen such bad conditions on the mountain for at least 15 years. So far they’ve managed to clean the way up to Plaza Canada – Camp 1, and to Nido de Cóndores Camp 2 – from where we will try to summit in a few days time. We will stay at Plaza de Mulas for a few days, as we need to acclimatise properly. Plus at the moment there is nowhere really to go, as the weather conditions have been preventing mountaineers from any mountain actions for many days.

The weather on Aconcagua can be unpredictable and challenging. The success rate on Aconcagua is very low – around 30% of climbers make it to the summit.

Ascent to Mount Aconcagua via the Northwest Route (Normal Route)

Photo copied from Acomara (2023) website just for illustrative purpose.

We will set up only two altitude camps for acclimatization and rest; Plaza Canada and Nido de Condores from which we will directly go to the summit. The idea scares me as from Nido to Plaza de Colera will be around 4h trek; and from there another 7-10h to the summit and back to Nido de Condores. People often go first to Plaza de Colera, where they rest before the summit day.

Good morning – Lazy Day

My first day in the base camp. I slept well, I was knackered, so even though someone was playing a loud club music (yes! In the middle of nowhere. In the place where you come to switch off and recharge your batteries. so be aware). It is very difficult to connect with the nature in such a busy environment. So, I used my earplugs and fell asleep like a baby. I woke up surprisingly refreshed. Outside was windy and it was snowing. I looked through the open tent door, outside it was cold and cloudy. A helicopter was picking up the human waste. I was comfortable in my warm sleeping bag and I struggled to leave my cosy settings. I shouted to Raul and Richi ‘Good morning Chicos’. Soon after we met in a doom for a coffee and breakfast. Today – is our rest day, so we will hang out with others in a doom tent, eat, share different mountain stories and get to know other people.

I met Nimsdai

I knew that Nims is in the Plaza de Mulas, so it wasn’t really surprise to see him but still running into him was kind of unexpected.

Who is Nims?

Born in Nepal. Nims spent six years in the elite Gurkha regiment, and 10 years with the UK Special Forces. He’s now become a truly historic figure in the world of mountaineering, Who lead the first-ever ascent of K2 in winter, and climbed all 14 of the world’s 8,000m peaks in under just seven months.

I was just walking around the camp when I saw a big group of soldiers making a lot of noise. I looked and they were surrounding Nims. So I went to my tent grabbed my book, and walked back. Waited quietly in the corner, he looked at me and the book, and said: ‘wait I will sign it’. I’ve asked if it is ok to have a photo together he said sure one of the Guys will take photo of us. In the book he said “Remember that nothing is impossible” …

But we are all so different, sculptured by so many different experiences, our life stories, limitations, physical and mental strengths can’t be really compared. Or maybe that’s all excuses that we give to ourselves?!

If nothing is impossible, then would it be possible for something to be impossible?

Philosophy and words!

Let’s believe that nothing is impossible and that we can push ourselves to achieve the new possible. whatever it it for each of us!